Vectra X18xe1 Manual
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Hi all Well i put my 1.8 in for an early MOT yesterday and not much up except lambda emission failure. I posted on here last year that i had no compression on one of my cyclinders but never got round to sorting it, apparently this is the cause of the failure due to misfire. I've managed to come to the conclusion the problem is in the head and is either valves or a cracked head (pretty sure its not the second) - I just had a couple of questions for anyone willing - I also appreciate all the advice i received last year. If i was to buy a rebuild kit (valves, gaskets, bolts) - Is there anything else that may be required i.e guides, seals regarding valve replacement. Also, is it very hard to remove and relocate the valves with the cylinder head off.
I have read the haynes manual and it seems i need to remove the timing belt, inlet manifold, camshaft cover, sprockets & timing belt idler pulleys, power steering pump, loads of wires and pipes - Obviously removing coolant and depressurising fuel system first. I would appreciate any insight into the level of skill/patience all this requires, i'm not scared just wanted a little insight. Sorry for the long post yet again, any answers much appreciated. I know it's a bit of a pain - Really i would liked to have had a look at the head and check the valves, however i don't really know what replacing the valves entails.
Removing the head i've heard isn't too bad, which is why i was after some feedback on the process, but i heard re-seating the valves can be a pain if i was to do that myself. I'm going to be taking the head off this weekend regardless, i've seen some rebuild kits with the valves etc in, and its cheaper but no way as good a deal as having the head reconditioned. Have any of you guys replaced valves? Hi nafe66, at the moment i got a 1.8 Z18xe in bits and i've been getting help from the guys here, i got 16 bent valves because idle pulley broke, although it looks difficult it really is just a case of taking things off to get access to the bits you need, i took the cam cover off, crankshaft pulley, cambelt tensioner, drive belt, inlet manifold, exhaust manifold and all pipes connected to top half of engine, i didn't take camshaft sprockets off as you can pull the camshaft with sprockets and rear cam cover off with cylinder head. Massey Ferguson 1552 Parts Manual there. Upon stripping mine, apart from valves it looked like exhaust gasket had gone on one side too. Work wise, i'm no mechanic but a little handy with a spanner if i know what i'm doing, and in total it has taken about 3 Sunday afternoons when the weather was dry to strip it all down and take valves out.
Now i'm just waiting for money to buy full rebuilt kit. If you are taking valves out i can't stress how useful the valve spring compression tool is.
A good tip which i have also done is mark the belts before you take them off so you know how they go back on and what direction, take photos of every stage so you remember how it looked. I used basic tools like spanners, socket set with torx bits but i do have a torque wrench to put it all back together.
My next step is to buy rebuilt kit and grind the valves in, put all it back together and fingers crossed. Two reasons why i'm doing this when everyone has said 'buy a new car' or 'put a new engine in' are that 1) car has done 76k and i know this car, 2) surely it's cheaper to do this myself and learn a little more about my car. Dgoa11 Really appreciate that post, i get started properly tomorrow and can't wait to be honest, the anticipation has been eating me up and wish i had the week off. I also wanted to get to know the ins and outs of the engine and reckon this was the way to go (also wanted to save mega money). Your post has installed quite a bit more confidence in me, the car is on stands, coolant drained etc, just got to get down to the nitty gritty. I've actually just posted a new thread asking about bolts for the crankshaft pulley and a few others.
Did you replace these or use the same ones. Holt Mcdougal Algebra 2 Solutions Manual on this page. If you got replacements, where did you get them from? Many thanks again for the post honestly mate just what i needed. 1st of all, if the engine has been good, and not overheated in the past, then the head will be fine!, it is quite common for the valves to burn out and crack, so, remove the head, see which valve you need, and replace only what you need to! Valves are £6-8 each, plus you need a cambelt kit, head gasket set, antifreeze, oil and filter.be very careful undoing the crappy torx bolt on the timing belt tensioner! Use a good fitting torx bit-this is essential!
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